Il Frataio 1920, an old friggitoria in Livorno: when history becomes legend.

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Il Frataio 1920 is the oldest fry shop in Livorno, a historic shop in the heart of the city of Livorno, in the Central Market area, where you can eat frati, bomboloni and scagliozzi

What we talk about in this article:

• The birth of Il Frataio di Livorno in 1947
• The friars: the donuts “heart hole in the middle”
• What is the recipe of the Livorno friars?
• The Livornese friar wants it "on the boil"
• And then there are the bomboloni and the scagliozzi
• The ancient fry shop and Livorno
• The team from the ancient Livorno fry shop
• Future projects for Il Frataio in Livorno

TOthe center of Livorno, in the historic area Food Market, right in the heart of Cavallotti Square  – formerly Piazza delle Erbe -, has resisted indomitable for decadesold fry shop always known for his "brothers" and for his doughnuts which in 1970 worthily took the place of cannoli. Over time, then, classic production the following have been added scagliozzi, made of fried polenta; french fries; the mythical rags, or gossip, during the Carnival period; the rice fritters for the classic feast of St. Joseph; little plovers and the small cylinders – on order for birthdays and parties -; and also the frozen fritini to fry at home. In short, the delicacy fair for greedy people and not, since it is absolutely impossible to resist the atavistic recall of these delights that have been accompanying us winkingly since early childhood.

The birth of Il Frataio di Livorno in 1947

Since 1920 the property had housed a knife grinder and a butcher's. Then the Grandpa Luigi, of Apulian origin, bought it from a certain Massimo Deri in '47 and rented it out for a certain period of time. At that time he was working as a shoemaker, but in the 50s he decided to move from his country towards Livorno to start this delicious deal.

Today the business, managed together with the Esposito family, goes ahead thanks to the third generation represented by David And Luigi Rainone, children of the late Ennio, precious custodians of a centuries-old tradition which tends to maintain – but not only, as we will see – the qualitative process handed down over the years.

The friars: the donuts “heart hole in the middle”

The friar around here it is the flagship product, which gives the company its name: “The FrataioWhile in other areas of Italy – but also in Tuscany – they would simply call them donuts, here, gentlemen, we are in Livorno. And, as we know, in Livorno they don't like to stick too closely to the rules. trivial linguistic rules which most people adhere to.

Here, in the city of Tuscan vernacular most spectacular par excellence, in the homeland of the “dé”, a wonderful interjection valid for all seasons, the donuts “heart hole in the middle”, similar to the cleric of a religious man with sugar instead of hair, they become friars, exactly. So what do you want to tell him? Nothing, hatOnce again, glottology has everything to learn from a city that does folkloristic color its power.

Then it's obvious that it doesn't end there. Many come from The Frataio and ask instead of the friar a sister: what are you giving me a sister? Yes, because in these parts, like in Naples, the friar is a brother, and Livorno and Naples certainly have many similarities, apart from being large ports. Or perhaps precisely because they are major international ports, almost without borders, have many affinities. And then there are those who overdo it with memes or jokes: friars... it takes a lawyer!

For further information: Livorno, the most bohemian city in Tuscany, is an explosion of lifeto

What is the recipe of the Livorno friars?

Okay, but How do you become a friar? Simple, or rather, simple for those who know how to do it like them. Flour, water, brewer's yeast, salt, a little sugar and lemon essence. And a lot of patient preparation. First the chariot, a dough of about 20 kg that rises for 18 hours. Then, once the dough has been made molds, these rise again for 40-50 minutes. Then the mold is fried for 3 minutes in sunflower seed oil, at a temperature of 180°. At that point the new friar is extracted and sprinkled with classic sugar semolina, just a little lighter. And voilà, in the mouth is the end of the world, so much so that you have to run out of the chip shop if you don't want to fall back into the temptation of getting another one. Until the next day, ça va sans dire.

The Livornese friar wants it "on the boil"

The secret is that from made to sold only a few minutes run. We're talking about express products, carried out seamlessly during working hours: from 8:30 to 13:00 and from 4:00 PM to 7:30 PM. Clear, right? Do you want to put a freshly baked friar with someone who has been behind the counter for a few hours to cool off? And then the Livorno DOC the friar doesn't just want it hot, he wants it absolutely"to the boil", that is, so hot that it burns your lips, palate, and throat, otherwise what's the point? In short, friars, friars, friars: during the busiest periods, they work here up to 60-70 kg of flour per day, more or less 1,000 friars. Not bad.

For further information: 5 Typical Livorno Dishes: From Cacciucco to Punch

And then there are the bomboloni and the scagliozzi, no small thing.

The donut at Il Frataio they do it with cream, chocolate and chantilly cream, which is custard with the addition of whipped cream.dough It's the same as the friar's, except obviously there's no hole in the middle. It seems that the best sellers are those with the two creams.

As for the scagliozzi, it is a typical product of the Foggia cuisine from frying, but also known from other cuisines, including Tuscan. We are talking about slices of polenta (i.e. made with corn flour) cut into shape of small triangles, leave to dry for a few days after preparation so that they do not melt in the boiling oil, fried for about 40 minutes, and finally salted. They are then sold in multiples of 5: 5-10-15, to simplify the work. On average, they are sold about 50 kg of polenta per day. Truly remarkable.
Any small tips? Scagliozzi are delicious when paired with Colonnata lard, in pieces of melted cheese, to olive, or various sauces.

The ancient fry shop and Livorno

There fry shop It is perfectly integrated into the fabric of the city, and has been an important and essential part of it for decades. Many customers associate this exciting experience to thechildhood, when they were attached here to the hand of the parent on duty take “the friar” as a morning snack, and maybe today they want it do the same thing passing this on to their children in turn tasty tradition; so much so that many come from nearby schools with their children.

It is impossible for me not to associate all this with the excitement we felt when in Versilia, dirty with sand and salt, we saw the seller of donuts and hot doughnuts and we begged our mothers to buy us one. Better two. And if our mothers said no, why? we had already eaten another one, or maybe they were addicted to the strict diet and didn't want to see us ballooning like balloons, then there were tears and tantrums. Until we got the pass. wonderful times, when one was enough teardrop to solve everything.

The team from the ancient Livorno fry shop

But there are not only David And Luigi to get busy with all these kilograms of flour. Claudia, for example, has been working here for a short time, but It's been a long time since he came to Il Frataio, because when she was little her mother always wore it: and how could we doubt it? The poignant thought returns again leitmotif of the historic place which is not only an integral part of the legend of a city, but which has even contributed, and still contributes, to create the legendA place without which Livorno wouldn't be the same, we are sure of it. And I really believe that this is the priceless added value of a similar activity. In a world where new gastronomic points they spring up like mushrooms from every side, one that has been resisting since '47 it's something really exceptional.
Then we must mention Francesco Pallini, a very valid and unsurpassable friend who helps them a lot in production; Lavinia, another very valid help in sales during the weekend; and last but not least Nataliya, Ukrainian – all our solidarity to her -, the David's wife, who has been working “in the family” since 2007. He has seen all sorts of things in these 15 years, but above all, what has never failed, he tells us, is thehusband's enthusiasmWe take your word for it.

For further information: Dé livornese: a tiny little word for an infinite number of meanings

Future projects for Il Frataio in Livorno

The future holds ideas in development. For example, for St. Patrick they experimented with a new cream, a Irish cream. Interesting. Not to mention that this could be the perfect place to do the cuddles, the ficattole or the damsels, whatever you prefer to call them, in short, that delicious one fried pasta, of a thousand forms, of the tradition TuscanyThey're seriously considering it. Our suggestion? Do it. And good luck.

Well, Dear friends of TP, very sure that we have made your mouth water, we await your comments on "The Frataio 1920”. Write below, on Facebook, on Instagram: expressions in strict Livorno dialect are particularly appreciated.

_{The Frataio 1920 Ancient Friggitoria – Via del Cardinale n° 9 (Piazza Cavallotti area) Livorno – Tel. +39 0586 884571}

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About The Author

Vieri Tommasi Candidi

Writer, Ambassador of Tuscany